Would you go down there if you were 80 to 90% or are you waiting until you’re 100%?
I don’t think I would go down there even if I was 90% because the way the waves are there, it’s all about airs. I couldn’t imagine getting hurt again and sitting out another month or two—that would suck.
That makes sense. Like when Josh Kerr hurt his ankle in Fiji, he just taped it up and got barreled. But doing airs with a bad ankle is another story…
Yeah if it was like Cloudbreak, I’d go even if I was like 75% but it’s a totally different kind of wave and different kind of surfing.
Let’s look a little down the line. After you’re all healed up: next time a big air section pops up in front of you, what’s the plan?
The whole goal when I do start surfing again—and see a big air section—is to be able to land in the flats [and not get hurt]. Hopefully I’m not scared to hit it [laughs].
I personally hate these things; but will you be surfing in any more expression sessions?
Gosh… I’m going to really watch out for those! It makes me so mad you don’t even understand.
They make me mad and I’m just a viewer. I’m like, “Jeez these are pointless!”
The announcers were hyping up every turn everyone did, and I was getting so psyched up, I was like, “I gotta do something big!” So I forced an air and got myself hurt. Next expression session I surf I’m just going to do cutbacks.
Anything else for your fans out there? What’s going on besides rehab? How many cameras have you bought since you’ve been injured?
[Laughs] I haven’t bought any cameras but we did build a dark room when I was at Hurley and I was printing a bunch of photos. That was a lot of fun, developing film and printing photos.
Any other new interests or hobbies you’ve picked up besides the darkroom activities?
Let’s see, we’ve been having bonfires and BBQ’s on the beach. That and just taking pictures and filming things. Filming a lot actually.
Who do you film?
Things, people, surfing, whatnot.
Cool man. Well I’ll let you get back to your coffee, get well soon!
Thanks, see ya!
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