Ozmageddon Day 2
It’s only 4pm but I feel like I’ve packed three days into one. After being hungover all day yesterday I rallied for the dawn patrol this morning and was in the water by 5am. On the way I ran into Red Bull surf team coach Shane Beschen, Carissa Moore, Sally Fitzgibbons, and Lakey Peterson. We all huddled up near the rocks at Snapper waiting for a break in the sets to paddle out. I got a little impatient and got a bit too close to the edge of the rocks when a bigger set came in and completely lit me up. I almost took out Sally as I tumbled underwater head over heels. “Whoa mate, you okay?” she asked. “Yeah, yeah. I’m fine,” said the dumb Seppo.
After finally making it out I saw a stumpy looking figure sitting really deep and quickly realized it was Occy. He must have paddled out at 4:30am. After a couple waves I gave up fighting the current and got swept down to Greenmount and got a few burgers before calling it quits—at 5:45am.
After that we cruised down to the contest site and watched a few heats before another surf this time at Duranbah. It was overhead but kind of wonky with the high tide and wind swell. Hardly all-time Dbah but still loads of fun. Walking back from Dbah I saw two fistfights, both involving teenagers at the event site. I’m not sure why they were scrapping but one kid got his ass kicked pretty good and was bleeding from nose, eye, and forehead. It was right in the middle of the contest site and nobody really batted an eye. Weird.
Putting the fisticuffs behind us, TWS Photo Editor Aaron Checkwood and I met up with John John Florence and his filmer Blake Kueny and bolted down south to a deserted beachbreak where John ripped and I floated around thinking about sharks. Good fun. After lunch they dropped us off at Komune where it was absolutely raging down by the pool. That said, I’ve surfed three times and did a Cote’s Cube interview with John—I deserve a beer. Find me by the pool…