Baja By Boat

With swirling winds and no idea what the swell was doing, we motored to Isla Natividad. As the vessel rounded the eastern tip of the island, plumes of spray flew off the back of what looked to be head-high plus barrels. We quickly dropped anchor and got the skiff ready for what figured to be the best session of the trip. We were not let down. While it wasn’t all-time Natividad, we’d lucked into a late season south swell that was being crossed up with fading northwest energy. Long rights that bent out to sea and short, rampy lefts were being groomed by strong offshore winds. A few curious locals came by to say hi, and then charged us five dollars a head for the pleasure of standing on their wind-blown piece of dirt. Bielmann laughed as he said, “I’ve been here four times on so-called ‘strike missions’ and never got it this good.” Dumb luck and alcohol-fueled intuition prevail again.

Content with our surf sessions (all two of them) we set our sights further south with hopes of gin-clear water and curious pelagic fish. Now that the surfing element of the trip was taken care of, we put our faith in the real captain, Cary Dodson. He didn’t let us down. Hundreds of miles south of San Diego and more than 40 miles offshore, we came to a high point in the middle of the mighty Pacific Ocean where you could see the bottom. Land was nowhere to be seen, but 70 feet below the surface was an underwater ridge that was home to every kind of fish you could imagine. On the surface there were wahoo and yellowtail, while on the bottom lurked 100-pound gulf grouper.

The more experienced divers in our group (everyone but myself) effortlessly dropped down to the bottom in hopes of shooting the fish of their life. Soon after we entered the water, captain Cary (all six-foot-four and 230 pounds of him) yelled, “I’m on!” and started getting towed through the water as if a boat was dragging him. After a few laps around the perimeter of the Success, the fish tired and Cary was able to “brain it” with his knife and get it under control.

With that, the bloodbath began.

Wassel was up next with an ono (Hawaiian for wahoo) that rivaled the captain’s in both size and ferocity. It was the biggest ono he’d ever shot and stretched from the deck to the top of his shoulders when he held it up. Hank and Cheyne were hammering good-sized yellowtail and Lillard got another wahoo. I, on the other hand, was having a shocker and whiffed on shot after shot. I’d later learn that you have to wait for pelagic fish to swim up to you, not the other way around.

It was wide-open spearfishing for two days and we nearly filled the fish hold on the Success. I was the lone diver who hadn’t shot a grouper or wahoo and was feeling down until a bull dorado swam right up to me like he was sacrificing himself. I got a good shot behind the gill plate and he took off on a short-lived run. Finally! I kept a firm grip on it until the crew had it on a gaff and it was safely (not so safe if you were the fish) on the boat.

Covered in fish blood and feeling like scurvy-ridden pirates, we made a heading for our port of exit, and motored into Magdalena Bay with a wild night in La Paz on our minds. Unfortunately the details of La Paz can never be repeated. Just trust me when I tell you the nightlife there rivals that of Cabo San Lucas.

Haggard, hungover, and wobbly from being on the ocean for a week, we made it to the tiny airport in La Paz only to be greeted with a 2,700-dollar extra weight fee. We were several hundred kilos over and it was going to cost a lot of pesos to get our gear and fish home. Instead of giving in, we started chucking fish to every airport worker there and soon enough, our overweight fee had been whittled down to a much more manageable number. But the fun wasn’t over; we were flying in to the most violent city in the northern hemisphere—Tijuana.

Despite the horror stories you hear about the city, the airport in TJ is quite nice and located right on the border. After a five-dollar taxi ride we dragged our mountain of shit across the border and into America. After months of planning and a week at sea, the ultimate way to do Baja had come to an end and all that was left to do was reap, or in this case eat, the rewards.—Justin Coté


Above: As usual, nobody wanted to video too much but we did get a few GoPro clips beginning at the SD bait dock and ending with a few shots on wahoo and a dorado.

How To Hold Your Breath Longer And Dive Deeper With Dave Wassel
-Hold your breath while doing cardiovascular exercises like running or riding a stationary bike.
-Repeated dives in your environment, lakes or ocean, will make you more comfortable with your surroundings and therefore slow down your heart rate.
-Take a freediving or breath holding class—the results are (ahem) breathtaking.
-When descending, dive straight down, not at an angle.

Helpful Links:
Success Sportfishing
Riffe International
Spearblog.com

 

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