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The Trifecta Of Gnarliness
While it’s flat today, Thursday is looking like a trifecta of gnarliness. Here’s the scenario: there’s a solid west swell predicted to hit that day (the first west swell of the season), it’s low tide in the afternoon when the swell peaks, and Pipe hasn’t broke yet meaning dudes are gonna be frothing to surf out there—probably too frothing. Pipe is gnarly enough, but when you add the new swell, tons of sand built up, and amped crowd it’s got potential to be really dangerous. I for one will be watching the carnage from the safety of the beach…
Above: Cory Lopez and his daughter Alana shredding the North Shore…
After a deep sand run and tortuous workout on the beach, I surfed small Off The Wall and Backdoor this with just a handful of crew out. Sitting furthest out and pushing mini groms into waves was Luke Egan. Kolohe Andino and his old man Dino paddled out with Kolohe’s coach Mike Parsons, too. Kolohe was popping airs while the rest of us struggled to even catch a wave. Kid is gnarly and according to Dino, in the Pipe Masters by virtue of him having the highest “One World Ranking” seed. I don’t really understand that whole thing but it sounds like he’s in. And oh yeah, it’s gonna be f—king heavy Pipe. Trial by fire for the grom!
Dave Wassel popped in to the TransWorld house this morning to check the diving conditions out front. After a quick inspection he grabbed his speargun and swam off the beach to meet Mark Healey, who drove his jet ski up here from the Haleiwa harbor. I can see them now about 100 yards off the beach—Healey’s ski broke down (he forgot to charge the battery) and Wassel is swimming in.
We’ve got a full docket of activities this afternoon: Jags vs. Chargers on Monday Night Football (we’re calling it the “Struggle Bowl”), a bbq and new trunk unveiling party at the Vans house, and another bbq at the Oakley house. Doesn’t sound like a sober afternoon.
TAGS: ASP World Tour, Billabong Pipeline Masters, Brett Barley, Gabe Kling, hawaii, New Era, North Shore, North Shore Blog, North Shore Daily, O'Neill World Cup of Surfing, oahu, Pipe Masters, Pipeline, Reef McIntosh, Rocky Point, Vans Triple Crown Of Surfing