November 30, 2011
With a new west swell slowly trickling in—much of today was spent watching and waiting in anticipation of things to come. The new pulse was mostly shredded by the relentless trade winds, arriving along the the seven mile miracle far from perfect.
Days like this, it’s easy to get caught chasing your own tail—riding back and forth along the bike path; checking Logs, OTW, Pipe, and Rockies, finding everywhere is ‘almost good’ but nowhere quite right, and ending up right back at the first place you checked just in time for the mid morning rush hour. When that exact scenario unfolded earlier, I opted to hang with friends instead of surf…
Over at the Vans house near Sunset, Dylan Graves is nursing a sliced foot (10 stitches) and in this photo (above) he shows us his best Gerry Lopez impersonation. Pretty good, right? I wonder if that look might help him catch waves at Pipe this winter?
I hung with Dylan and friends on the porch for a while and watched Torrey Meister lay into a few mean hacks over at Sunset Point. Later, while interviewing Torrey for a ‘Last Words’ piece for an upcoming issue, he told me he “got completely worked” on a three foot wave. “I was held under, flipped all around, the whole deal. It doesn’t have to be big out there to humble you.”
After speaking with Torrey I stumbled up to the Hurley house before dark (on the sand at Pipe) just in time to join their catered team feast (thanks for the hospitality) and watch a few proper sets unload out front. Judging from the size of those waves as well as the rumblings after dark, tomorrow is looking solid. We’ll make sure to keep you updated as the day goes on…
For now here’s a quick edit of some of today’s happenings, with appearances by: Dylan Graves, Rasta, Nate Yeomans, Evan Valiere, and Gabe Kling. Whatever you do, don’t take this too serious. It’s just for fun, folks.
TAGS: ASP World Tour, Billabong Pipeline Masters, Brett Barley, Gabe Kling, hawaii, New Era, North Shore, North Shore Blog, North Shore Daily, O'Neill World Cup of Surfing, oahu, Pipe Masters, Pipeline, Reef McIntosh, Rocky Point, Vans Triple Crown Of Surfing