The 2011 Kandui Chronicles

Billabong Surf With A Pro At Kandui Resort: Day 7

Blood And Barrels As Rifles Comes Alive

After a slow start to the trip, the much-anticipated swell came up quickly today. Perhaps it was the marathon session we had in at the Kandui bar last night, you know how that works: get hammered and the surf inevitably comes up.

It was like Hawaii how fast the surf came up. Early this morning we surfed chest-high and inconsistent Rifles until it got too boring and lunch was served. After lunch, a couple of the crew came in wide-eyed and babbling about Rifles. “It’s going off out there mate, what are you doing standing there?” said Paul from Perth. Sure enough, it was off the hook. Rasta was sitting on the last section of the 600-yard long right and getting pitted out of his mind on 6-8 foot freight trains. “Did you see that f—king wave!” he screamed as we paddled back up the point. Yeah I saw it and nearly shat myself. Hilton Dawe was shooting fisheye from the water and was as jacked up as the rest of us, “F—ken oath the swell came up!” he hollered as he fired off frame after frame of Rasta getting tubed.

Four of the crew got cut up out there, with Josh Harper from Billabong winning the award for best wipeout after pulling into a low tide drainer and smacking his head on the reef. “I was telling myself underwater, ‘Stay awake, stay awake,’” he recounted after a having the wound cleaned by Doctor Walt. He’ll need a few stitches but is jonesing to get back out there—albeit with a bit more tide on the reef.

With a few solid 8-foot sets rolling through today at one of the best rights in the world—and even bigger swell forecasted for the next couple days—we could be in for some of the best waves any of us have ever seen. Let’s do this!

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