There’s an epic session going on right now at Log Cabins. I just saw Gabriel “Peru” Villaran get the best wave I’ve seen out there. He’d gotten pounded on the wave before, a late drop into a kamikaze leap. “My board was this close to my face, man!” he told us still dripping wet after his heroic two section tube. I was watching with Gavin Gillette and the Ranga and Gavin claimed it as the best wave he’d ever seen out there. Brent Bielmann was out there with his camera—let’s hope that he got it!
The wind switched from onshore to offshore and instantly the waves were firing at places like Laniakea, Rocky Rights, Rockpiles, and Logs. The Florence bros—all three of them—were surfing 10-foot Rockpiles all by themselves yet still dropping in on each other and doing figure eights on these massive waves, just messing around like it was nothing. Time to rally soon and head into town for Jordy’s party.
The swell dropped off from yesterday just a bit, there are still some solid ten-foot sets steamrolling through Rockpiles though. After pussing out on it yesterday I gave it a go with our house guest Oliver Kurtz. We paddled out at Insanities where Oliver made it out and I didn’t. The sandbar seems to have moved further off the beach so there were double-overhead triple ups breaking kinda far off the beach. At one point I thought I had it yet got picked off. I swallowed water, barfed up my coffee, and turned tail for the beach. Defeated, I walked up the beach to Jamie O’Brien’s house and borrowed a 9’8″ Tokoro. “You break it you buy it, brah,” said JOB. With those words in my head I paddled out through the channel at Pipe and didn’t have to duck under any waves.
Out the back was John Florence, his brothers Ivan and Nathan, Oliver, and Matt Archbold. After getting a good sized set I got to talking to John John about his upcoming heat with Kelly Slater. “You can beat him man, especially if it’s all weird and on the sandbar,” I said. He kinda gave me a smile and said, “We’ll see. Kelly’s Kelly though, he always gets the wave.” With that he spun around and airdropped into a heavy right that was headed into the dreaded reef at Log Cabins.
The wind has come up pretty good and it’s straight onshore so we’re going to head into town for some dim-sum in Chinatown, and later tonight, a Jordy Smith watch release party thrown by Vestal. Should be pretty fun, we’ll give you the full report…
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