Sunday December 12
Our trip is winding down and soon enough we’ll be back in SoCal freezing our tits off with the rest of the world. It’s been one of the funnest two weeks on the North Shore ever. It seems like the tragic passing of Andy Irons has really brought the tribe together—we’re seeing way more hugs and shakas than fights. There are a few first timers here at the house and they’re just blown away by the surf, the scenery, and seeing the best guys (and a few hard charging gals) surf right in front of the house at Rockpiles, which was all time a few days ago. We are all so lucky to be able to surf and live our lives the way we do, it’s really a blessing.
My favorite surfer to watch this year has been John Florence. I was sitting on the beach at Rocky Point yesterday “throwing back a few green bottles” (as Kekoa Bacalso would say) with filmmakers Bill Ballard and Greg Browning as well as former pro/coach/shaper Chris Gallager and we all came to the same conclusion—John John is the man. The kid loves to surf more than anyone, doesn’t have his head up his ass, and charges like there’s no tomorrow. His act at Logs and Rockpiles over the last week has been simply remarkable. We obviously expect huge things out of John in the near future—maybe even beating Kelly Slater in the Pipe Masters.
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