Kandui Chronicles: Dispatches From The Mentawais

Day 6 of the Billabong Surf With A Pro trip to Kandui: Small Rifles And Birthday Barrels

Donavon screamed like a girl after nearly stepping on this little boa constrictor we found on the path to the restaurant. All he wanted was a Bintang Donny... Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Donavon screamed like a girl after nearly stepping on this little boa constrictor we found on the path to the restaurant. All he wanted was a Bintang Donny... Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Billabong Surf With A Pro Kandui camper Stan Abe cranks it off the bottom at 4 Bobs. Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Billabong Surf With A Pro Kandui camper Stan Abe cranks it off the bottom at 4 Bobs. Photo: Bielmann/SPL

After ripping Nokandui the other day, Billabong's Jim Kempton had a nice brush with the reef at 4 Bobs. Gotta pay to play Jimmy! Photo: Bielmann/SPL

After ripping Nokandui the other day, Billabong's Jim Kempton had a nice brush with the reef at 4 Bobs. Gotta pay to play Jimmy! Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Evenings at Kandui are spent at the "Kandui Cantina" drinking Bintang beer, eating peanuts, and telling tall tales of the day's shredding. Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Evenings at Kandui are spent at the "Kandui Cantina" drinking Bintang beer, eating peanuts, and telling tall tales of the day's shredding. Photo: Bielmann/SPL

"All Day" Ray is one Kandui Resort owners and the nicest guy you could ever meet. Thanks for everything amigo! Photo: Kaliang aka Black Johnson aka Black Pearl

"All Day" Ray is one Kandui Resort owners and the nicest guy you could ever meet. Thanks for everything amigo! Photo: Kaliang aka Black Johnson aka Black Pearl

Billabong Surf With A Pro camper Jesse Blythe at 4 Bobs, the fun and always breaking right directly in front of Kandui Resort. Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Billabong Surf With A Pro camper Jesse Blythe at 4 Bobs, the fun and always breaking right directly in front of Kandui Resort. Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Me and Adek pose with the tasy grub chef Pat whipped up last night. Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Me and Adek pose with the tasy grub chef Pat whipped up last night. Photo: Bielmann/SPL

After getting some barrels at Bankvaults earlier in the day, Camper Aaron celebrates his birthday in style. Photo: Bielmann/SPL

After getting some barrels at Bankvaults earlier in the day, Camper Aaron celebrates his birthday in style. Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Rasta at Rifles this morning. One of the fastest, hollowest, and longest waves in the world, I'd give my left nut to get this place at 6-foot! Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Rasta at Rifles this morning. One of the fastest, hollowest, and longest waves in the world, I'd give my left nut to get this place at 6-foot! Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Donavon at Rifles this morning...a couple more feet and we're in business! Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Donavon at Rifles this morning...a couple more feet and we're in business! Photo: Bielmann/SPL

Day 6 and more of the same, or as they say in Indonesia, “Sama Sama.” After surfing Rifles this morning, I did a cool interview with Donavon that will be featured in an upcoming issue of TransWorld SURF. It was neat to hear him talk about teaching his two boys how to surf and his thoughts on music and surfing. The best part was at the end of the interview I asked him if he had to pick one or the other, surfing or music, which one would he choose. Without skipping a beat, he picked surfing. It’s opened so many doors for him and basically given him everything he has today, so it was a pretty easy choice for him. Donny and Rasta are now officially my favorite two pro surfers, both are kind, courteous, smart, and super talented in many aspects.

While it was fun, Rifles has been teasing us with an overhead set every twenty minutes. And with the gray sky, sets would just pop out of nowhere so you had to really pay attention to where you were on the reef to be in the right spot. The wave itself is simply amazing—200 yards of barreling perfection. Get a big south swell with a touch of west in it, the right wind, and you will be surfing the best in the world at that exact time. With only two more days left, our time’s a ticking…

On a sad note, the surfing world lost one of the tribe yesterday at Puerto Escondido. Noel Robinson will be greatly missed by all who had the opportunity to have met him. Our thoughts and condolences go out to his friends and family, you will be missed amigo.

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