I am fired up for this weekend…I just got a new board from my shaper and we have all kinds of swell hitting the West Coast and good weather. Really if you live in California you could stop reading the forecast right now, and just plan on surfing yourself silly this weekend.
Are you still reading? Seriously?
Ok, ok…I guess I should go ahead and give you a few more details.
Starting Friday the West Coast will be seeing a building mix of W-NW swell (270-300) and some background (but still decently sized) SW swell (200-220). The main push of W-NW energy will be hitting the West Coast hard from Point Conception on up through Washington…solid surf running an easy double-overhead at the average spots and sets going 3-4 times overhead at some of the bigger breaks that can hold and focus this sort of swell. In fact this swell is big enough that they have went ahead and greenlit the Maverick’s Contest for Saturday.
Speaking of that…here is a mini-forecast for Mav’s on Saturday. The new mix of W-NW swell (270-300+) will have come up fast on Friday and will be solidly peaking throughout the day on Saturday. By Saturday mid-morning we can expect nearly 17-20 feet of W-NW swell @ 16-17 second periods. This is a pretty good direction and swell-period for Mav’s…so there is a real shot of those deepwater wave heights nearly doubling as the sets start to stack up on the reef. At this point it looks like the contest could easily have surf with 20-25’ faces…and sets getting up around 30-35’ as the tides settle out. Winds will be good on Saturday as well…general flow will be from the NE which is offshore…skies will be mostly sunny but there may be some periods of patchy fog (hey it is Northern/Central California).
Moving down the coast and on into SoCal…the W-NW swell will lose a bit of size as it navigates through the shadowing of SoCal’s nearshore islands and the blockage we generally see from Point Conception. Still there will be plenty of waves…top exposed spots can expect overhead surf with sets going several feet overhead as the swell peaks later Saturday afternoon and on into Sunday. Even the more shadowed areas should be pretty fun thanks to the playful SW swell that will peak over the weekend as well…look for those areas to be more in the chest-head high range with some overhead+ sets at the best combo spots that are more exposed to the W-NW energy.
Lots of swell huh? Yeah the best part is that the mix will hold strong throughout the West Coast through Sunday…before starting a slow drop through the middle of the week. We will actually see a few reinforcements from the WNW-NW that will push in Monday/Tuesday and help to keep wave heights from dropping too fast…they aren’t as big as the weekend swell but there will still be plenty of overhead+ waves at the well exposed spots.
Over in Hawaii they aren’t going to be hurting for waves…they actually got the West Coast’s weekend swell on Wednesday/Thursday of this week…the weather/winds weren’t great but the top North Shore spots where running nearly 15-20’ at times. This swell will be fading out as we move through Friday and on through the weekend…fortunately winds will improve, shifting from the NE direction that held through the middle of the week to a cleaner Easterly direction. Look for well-overhead surf to continue to show throughout the weekend…with sets still going close to double-overhead and bigger on through Friday/Saturday but then tailing off to smaller sizes on Sunday/Monday. Further out it looks like more WNW-NW swell on the way for Tuesday-Thursday of next week. The Southern Hemi has been sending out a few S swells too…spots in Town can expect some chest-head high waves through the weekend and it looks like some more shoulder-head high+ S swell on tap for the middle of next week.
That is all I have for this week…hope you guys stay safe and score a few this weekend!