West Coast And Hawaii Weekend Surf Forecast

forecast

West Coast And Hawaii Weekend Surf Forecast

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The North Pacific decided to switch things up a little this week…instead of just cranking out some swell and letting us West Coast guys surf with nice conditions it decided to move a crazy storm right in close to California and take turns drowning it with rain or pummeling it with big W swell…and usually managed to both at the same time. Fortunately it looks like this storm is finally going to break and move off to the east…letting the West Coast dry out, at least a little bit, before we get some more rain next week. As a parting gift it is going to drop another solid shot of W-WNW swell (as well as more rain and wind) right on top of Central and Southern California…

We can expect this large W-WNW swell to hit the coast on Friday and hold into Saturday before starting to drop off on Sunday, and since the storm creating this swell had plenty of size/duration/intensity, we can expect energy from this one to linger through at least the first part of next week. This swell looks to be pretty powerful…possibly stronger than anything we saw earlier in the week. I am expecting most W facing beaches in SoCal to go several feet overhead to double overhead on the sets and the standout breaks to consistently hit double-triple-overhead on the sets. Conditions won’t be great but there will be plenty of energy being tossed about. Check out the WINDSAT pass of this part of the storm while it was still a ways off our coast below…

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Our surf won’t just disappear either…we have another storm setting up just south of the Gulf of Alaska that will pull together over the next couple of days. This new storm will set up more WNW swell for California that will arrive on Monday (Jan 25) and hold through Tuesday (Jan 26)…possibly bringing some rain and S winds as well, but much weaker than the storms we saw from the previous system. This next swell, since it will be combo-ing up with the leftovers from the bigger swell that hits on Friday and Saturday, will help to push the surf back into the shoulder-overhead range for most exposed breaks and sets going a couple of feet+ overhead at the standouts. This swell will fade out on Wednesday while conditions improve…despite the dropping swell we can expect plenty of waves through mid-week. Check out the pressure chart on this one…as you can see it is quite a bit smaller than the previous storm.

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Further out there is more activity starting to brew up just to the NW of Hawaii…this is forecast to become more organized as we move through the weekend…possibly setting up more WNW swell for the islands around the 26-17th and for California around the 28th.

South Pacific
Finally starting to see a little sign of life down in the SPAC…there has been a moderate/mild storm hanging down off Antarctica due south of SoCal over the last couple of days. It hasn’t done anything super impressive, winds have held around 30-35 knots, but it has held semi-stationary with just a touch of S-to-N movement that pushed the winds in our direction. We can expect a small pulse of S swell (180-190) starting to show on Monday-Tuesday (Jan 25-26) and then a slightly stronger pulse of S energy (175-190) pushing in around Wednesday (Jan 27).

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Don’t expect much more than chest high from these guys as the push into SoCal…but since the WNW swell will be more manageable around that time…we might see a few fun combo peaks starting to slip through.

Here are the details…

Hawaii
The surf drops down to mostly head high to overhead sizes as we head into Friday and Saturday…just some leftover WNW swell on tap for both those days. A new short-medium period mix of NNW swell moves in on Sunday and helps to push the exposed spots back into the overhead to well-overhead range…possibly some double-overhead+ faces at the top spots. This will hold into Monday…backing down slightly for the afternoon. The forecast charts are showing some new storm activity forming off to the NW of the islands over the weekend that has the potential to set up another well-overhead WNW swell for the 26-27th…though it is a little early to call it looks like we could be back in the double overhead+ range at the top breaks (wow Hawaii seeing large WNW swells during the winter? What a concept!)

Northern California
Large W swell hits the coast on Friday and holds into Saturday…funky conditions on tap as well thanks to steady S winds through most of the day on Friday. Expect double-triple overhead surf…with some bigger bombs mixing in the closer you get to Point Conception. These waves will fade out on Sunday but a new round of W-WNW energy from our nearly developing storm will start to push in on Monday…helping to hold wave heights in the double-overhead+ range at the standout exposed spots. These waves eventually back down late Tuesday and into Wednesday as conditions clean up considerably…(really Wednesday looks like a pretty good surf day at this point). Looks like more WNW swell on tap for the 27-28th.

Southern California
Stormy conditions and large well-overhead to nearly double-triple overhead W-WNW swell hits on Friday. There may be a few pockets protected from the S winds that push through in the morning but in general the surf looks pretty craptacular for most areas. Look for this W-WNW swell to hold through Saturday, (along with onshore winds), but start to see a slight cleanup and a slight fade in size by the end of the day. Sunday looks fun with smaller, more manageable surf, (still well-overhead at the top spots…but smaller, more shoulder-overhead at the average breaks) and cleaner conditions thanks to winds shifting back to a more normal pattern. Look for more rideable size/shape on Monday…with some more WNW swell filling in late in the afternoon and holding overhead+ surf into Tuesday. More swell forming out the back…so look for another round of WNW swell setting up for late next week.

Have fun and stay safe!
Adam Wright
Surf Forecaster
www.socalsurf.com