Wednesday Feb 25
On The Piss O’Clock Gotta love the Rainbow Bay Surf Club…Where else do you see everyone’s hero Martin Potter and throw back beers with Bruce Lee? Excuse the typos…
Four Aussies and a “loose cunt Seppo” at the Rainbow Bay Surf Club. From left; former Tracks Editor Sean “Doughboy” Doherty, Token Seppo, Bruce Lee (the absolutely wrong guy to cut off around these parts), Simon Law, and Shorty Buckley. Workin’ hard down here…How did Doughboy get a Wikipedia link? Photo: Hornby/Stryker
“So Bruce, how and when is this ‘you block for me at D’bah’ thing gonna work out exactly?” By the way, that look is not one you want to get from this Aussie pit bull.
I don’t know about you jerks, but when I was a kid, Martin Potter was THE MAN! Things haven’t changed either—check the Kelly/Andy Collide issue for proof—”The Saint” has mental shot in there. And who’s the lovely Sheila? None other than Holly “Monkey” Monkman who helped us with the 10 Hottest Girls In Pro Surfing article.
3:45 Surfed Snapper this afternoon with me, Kelly Slater, and 973 other people. The Champ was in a chatty mood too so in between dodging people, getting run over, riding a few waves, and running over little kids (true story), I launched a few questions his way…
“What did you think about your guys’ movie [A Fly In The Champagne with Andy and Kelly]?” “I thought it was cool,” said the Champ then spun around and got a wave on a round nose quad that he shaped himself. Minutes later, “My friend got a killer shot of you doing a big slash at D’bah with your girlfriend and her friend in the foreground.” Yeah, I was buttering him up good. “I bet it’s a good on if her butt’s in it,” he said. “Yeah well the girls are a little out of focus so it’s not too pervy…” I replied. Minutes later he compared the crowd and inherent hazards to the Kenny Loggins smash hit Highway To The Danger Zone and how he saw him play in Santa Barbara, “He’s an amazing songwriter.” Damn, he’s on fire today, I thought. “Have you seen the forecast?” he asked, “It’s not looking good, kinda like this [bumpy, short-interval, onshore, but you never know here, a cyclone or something can form anytime.” He told me a classic story about Bill Murray—who Kelly played golf with at the Pebble Beach Pro Am deal a couple weeks ago—learned to surf one day while vacationing in Bali, then went to G-Land of all places for his second ever surf with a couple bros. I then ran a 13-year old kid over and chopped his board in half. After five days I’m used to this and told him he shouldn’t bail his board in front of people. Once out the back, I asked Kelly if he ever had a chance to surf with Sean Penn because I read the new Rolling Stone interview with Penn on the flight down and he kept mentioning growing up and surfing in Malibu. “I was supposed to…but…” With that, a wonky little bump came through and me and the Champ were on it…him in front and me digging rail and doing the Aussie version of the Huntington Hop behind him. Yep, me and the Champ, we’re tight!
11AM Overcast and muggy today but there’s been a bump in the swell from yesterday’s wind. A bit wonky but overhead and super fun at Dbah and better and better as the tide gets lower at Snapper…here are a few pics from my days’ wanderings—Justin Cote
2009 ASP World Tour Rookie Dustin Barca (above) does some shadow boxing in his fifth floor room that overlooks Rainbow Bay˜just around the corner from the contest site. I ran into Dustin early this morning while he jogged and I drank coffee (The two physiques reflect upon this). Yesterday, I asked him if he was getting amped for the contest and he was like, “I’m getting there.” That’s the way to go, slow and steady, don’t peak too early.
Barca’s 6’0″ quad shaped by Bret Marumoto. The writing on the stringer was from Bret and said “For Dustin Barca 2009 WCT Go Barca!” Looks like a sick board and with Dustin hitting mach four on his forehand out there shit could get nuts. Photo: Justin Cote
Roy Powers and his ladyfriend enjoying brekky and the better American dollar exchange rate for us Seppos than last year, “We were having like $60 breakfast’s down here last year!” said Roy. Roy’s smooth style could translate well into the long rights we’re gonna see for the Quik Pro. Photo: Justin Cote
The evil Portuguese Man Of War, or “Blue Bottles” as they call ‘em down here in Australia. This little fella, along with thousands more of his kind, washed in last night after some stiff onshore winds. What’s interesting about these is that it’s not one animal but rather four different kinds of “siphonophore” that are all attached and integrated. Whatever they are, the sting hurts like hell…this one was washed up at Dbah this morning. Photo: Justin Cote
Dane Reynolds (above with manager Blair Marlin) and the not-so-glamorous side of professional surfing. After a 14-hour plane ride and forking out hundreds of dollars for your boards, a transfer in Sydney, rental car pickup, you show up to the Goldy in pants and it’s 90 degrees and super humid out. Dane will be at the ASP Awards Banquet tomorrow night to accept his award for Rookie Of The Year. I told him congrats on this and was his usual modest self and jokingly said, “Oh yeah, I killed alright.” Photo: Justin Cote
The surfarazzi strikes as I nail Dane and Blair from one angle while excited tour rookie Nathaniel Curran gets the other. Jeez, that sounded creepy…Photo: Justin Cote
Is 2009 ASP World Tour Rookie Kekoa Bacalso bronzing or waiting on Matty Gye to pick him up for some top-secret video project? We’re thinking the latter but you never know…Photo: Justin Cote
ASP Women’s Tour Veterans Megan Abubo (Hawaii) and Amee Donohoe (Australia). With the new crop of girls coming up these two are going to have their hands full—but don’t count the old guard out just yet! Megan’s been doing a blog for Surfermag.com and when I razzed her about th lack of a new one she said she was working on it, with the theme being “How To Not Drink A Ton Of Beer In Australia”. Sounds like something I should read…Photo: Justin Cote
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