The most important thing in doing a turn like this starts with the bottom turn. The surfing I like to see also always starts with a good bottom turn. This means really laying all of your weight into the board, compressing your knees, and driving through the turn. Make sure you’re keeping an eye on exactly where you want to go.
Now in transition, your timing is crucial. For this turn, try to hit that exact spot where the wave’s the steepest, but hasn’t broken yet. Stay centered over your board as well. Don’t think of throwing your tail over the top of the wave, just try to carve a tight turn right in the crucial part of the wave. Always think of following through the whole turn.
At this point, the board breaks free from the wave. Try to keep pushing on your tail, thinking about that tight turn. Fall into a layback for just a brief second, while still following through with the turn. Your board is weightless at this point. When your fins reconnect with the wave, try to pull yourself back over the board. It’s good to try to turn your board back toward you to make getting back up a little easier. While pushing with your legs, stand back up. Leg strength helps here¿maybe I should go to the gym. Sometimes you get lucky like I did here and pull it off.¿Matt Coleman