It’s winter on the North Shore and the waves are up. I had the chance to catch up with Dan Malloy just before he headed off rock climbing with his brother Chris and friend Jeff. He’s loving life at the moment, hanging out at his house in front of Gas Chambers and surfing great North Shore waves.
How have you been Dan? What have you been up to for the last few months?
I’ve been traveling a lot. I’ve been to New Zealand, then I went to Sri Lanka with Thomas Campbell.
How was it in Sri Lanka, what did you get up to over there?
I took a lot of different boards. I had an eleven-foot Skip Frye and three or four of my normal boards. This guy named Rich Cavelle shaped me a board that—I don’t know if it would have been noticed in Shelter—was ridden a bunch. It was like an Occy replica. You know those boards coming back right now that are like real flat? I also had this Skip Frye fish board that was really cool.
We did a lot of traveling, almost real traveling. A lot of the places I had never been. Just a change of pace compared to the tour, you know? I’ve been to all the places like five times, and I know all the people. So it was really nice to get to a place and not know anybody. At one stage there were four of us traveling, but a lot of the time it was just Thomas and I. We were there to surf, but it was kind of nice to not have to get surf.
Did you end up scoring some nice waves in Sri Lanka?
Yeah, we got epic waves. We would surf all day, everyday. It would never get over four feet, but we had boards to surf all conditions. Like I had my eleven-foot board over there.
What was that like to ride?
It was great. The place is like the Gold Coast but not as good. I mean there’re a lot of point breaks, so it was great for that board. The waves were perfect for it a lot of the time. The waves are usually small, so having that board was really nice. When I would ride that board, I could look around and not have to concentrate so much. Jumping back on that board just takes you somewhere else.
Sri Lanka has a beautiful culture, how was that to be around all the time?
Where we were in Sri Lanka, there were a few Israeli surfers. It was great to have them around, but besides that, you don’t have a two hundred or a hundred people that you know. You don’t have people there to shoot photos or videos, and you don’t have the choice to go out to dinner with all the boys. It wasn’t like I was learning the language or studying the culture, but I did enjoy it. You see so much of it by just being there amongst it.
What were the Israeli guys like to be around?
They were super-amped on everything. They’d never seen waves that good before. They’d never seen proper barrels. I love to be around people that get excited from surfing. It was fun to go out and sort of show off, but I would do it for them. I would go out and try big floaters, and they were freaking. They were tripping out on brand-new Al Merricks and stuff. It was cool.
How was it this year being a part of the Eddie ceremony?
I don’t know exactly how I got into it. I’m twelfth alternate so I probably won’t get in, and I don’t know if I’m really worthy. As long as I got invited though, it might be my only chance to be a part of the ceremony, so it was really amazing to go down there. The energy of standing there and watching all those guys, when you paddle out and you hear guys talking out there and just being a part of the tribute to Eddie is beautiful.
Have you been getting plenty of waves in Hawaii this year?
The waves have just been pumping, and there have been a few good days at Pipe and Backdoor. We’ve had a few fun days at the Bay (Waimea). The other day, Chris, Keith, and I surfed a reef way outside on our own, and it was big and beautiful out there. It was early morning, and the sun was coming up overr the mountains—it was pretty rad. So it’s like you get those sessions at Pipe where it can be out of control, and then you can sneak off and get those other times when its just beautiful and you’re on your own.